Fife Arms Hotel, Scotland

The mist hangs in patches over the Scottish meadow and it is already half-day. Yet it is still mid-afternoon when we are on our way to an iconic hotel in a comfortable car. Winner of the Hotel of the Year award by The Sunday Times and repeatedly named one of the most beautiful design hotels in the world. Not surprising then that we heard great reviews from various quarters. And then it turns out that children and dogs are also welcome, so nothing stops us.

When we enter the village of Braemar, the fog has turned to rain. Getting out, we stop in front of the hotel. It is an impressive building. Built in the 19th century, The Fife Arms Hotel is a Braemar landmark and is a category B listed building. Its size is evidence of the popularity of Braemar in the wake of Queen Victoria's visits and her purchase of the nearby royal estate Balmoral. Known colloquially as The Games and originating from those believed to have been held by Malcolm III, an annual Highland Games Gathering is held at Braemar on the first Saturday in September and is traditionally attended by the British Royal Family.

All this is located in the Cairngorms National Park in the middle of the Scottish Highlands. The village is surrounded by a number of mountains. To the northwest lies the Carn na Drochaide (818 m), to the northeast the Creag Choinnich (538 m), the southeast the Carn na Sgliat (690 m) and southwest the Morrone (859 m). The place is the coldest low-lying place in the UK.

However, the coldness is not noticeable as soon as we enter the lobby of The Fife Arms as we are greeted by the very friendly staff in impeccable uniform. From the very start they go out of their way to help us. Maybe something you would expect and hope from an establishment of this caliber, but still a delight to actually experience it.

Not to mention the hotel's special design and the fact that it is packed with art. It contains over 16,000 antiques, artworks and curios including several site-specific works by world-renowned contemporary artists. From Pablo Picasso, Lucian Freud, Gerhard Richter and Bruegel to site specific commissions from contemporary art stars and watercolors by Queen Victoria and Prince Charles. Two mornings in a row we sit aging a Scottish breakfast right under a huge painting by the aforementioned Bruegel. We are not really what you call dedicated art lovers, but we cannot help but become immersed in all the different types / styles of paintings or objects that adorn this place. We are cheered and provoked at every turn. From the hand painted ceiling in the Drawing Room inspired by Scottish agates by Zhang Enli to the powerful walls in The Clunie Dining room which were hand painted by Guillermo Kuitca.

Although an art connoisseur will certainly appreciate all this, the collection in the hotel also consists of more mundane, but no less exciting objects. What to think of 100 pieces of Taxidermy in just one corridor. The visual spectacle will also without a doubt fascinate every child. If you want to immerse yourself in all the art, join one of the art tours that are specially organized for hotel guests.

The rooms are no less special. All 46 guestrooms and suites are individually decorated and named after a local figure, place, event or theme. Each room offers comfortable accommodation while showcasing the work of local craftsmen and the rich history of Braemar. The Discovery Family Suite combines two rooms each with ensuite bathrooms and is more than adequate. If you really like to make a splash, go for the Majestic Family Suite which offers a combination of a Royal and Victoriana suites. With their rich colors and furnishings, two living areas and elegant bathrooms with freestanding baths, this is the most luxurious family option.

To let all this special affect us, we settle down for a high tea in the Drawing Room which in a perfect way brings together art and history. The walls are covered in The Fife Arms tartan, which was designed especially for the hotel and the room is richly furnished with Scottish art and antiques. Only after half an hour our eyes catch on the ceiling which is really extra-ordinary. It was commissioned from the Chinese artist, Zhang Enli, who is renowned for painting directly onto the walls or ceiling of a room to create an immersive, nostalgic environment.

The five-star design experience continues into the beautiful Fife Arms garden. Overlooking the River Clunie, her graceful design is an extension of the landscape you see beyond the hotel and includes lots of native trees and plants including birch, rowan, azaleas and rhododendrons. A wonderful wildflower meadow sits at the bottom of the garden where you can sit and enjoy the mountain views and sounds of the Clunie water running alongside.

Maybe all of this reads like staying in a museum and not particularly in a family friendly environment, but still the Fife Arms is very low key and just the place to go for a long weekend with the kids. For example, the Family Room is a treasure trove of fun for children of all ages. With board games, books and table football plus a play kitchen, DVD player and Xbox with an array of different games, this is the perfect hangout. Don’t miss the red squirrels hidden throughout the room, all knitted by the ‘Deeside Knitwits’. Also available from reception is a treasure hunt around the hotel. Each young guest will receive a set of instructions which ask them to find certain treasures located throughout the hotel. Once completed the hotel will share a prize with each successful treasure hunter!

While the kids enjoy themselves in the Family Room, we recommend to borrow some of the hotel boots and go for a hike like we do. Walking along the river you’ll a beautiful area to discover. Being in one of the most famous national parks, the Cairngorms National Park in Scotland you just have to venture outdoors. The park closeby is 4528 km² in size. The rivers Dee, Spey and Avon originate in this area. The core of the area is formed by a massif containing the higher peaks of the highlands, there are a number of pass crossings. The area takes its name from the mountain Cairn Gorm (Scottish Gaelic: An Càrn Gorm, which means Blue or Green Mountain). Large parts of the area are above the tree line. The area is suitable for short and long hikes on ancient paths. Cycling is also possible for those who do not dread the necessary height differences. The roads are quiet and routes have been plotted. And if you’re lucky you might see one of those spectacular Scottisch Highlanders.

Especially for families with children, the hotel has three special guided hikes in store. On the "Murmuring Forest hike" you discover the mysteries of the forest and meet some of its wild inhabitants. Guided by the experts at Braemar Highland Experience, you will learn secret stories about some of Scotland's most native trees, as well as their past and present uses. The "Time Travel hike" focuses on how people of the past lived and worked in the remote glens surrounding the hotel, exploring the ruins of a remote village and learn about the lives of its inhabitants. Or if you do not feel up to a few hours, hike while the kids learn the art of navigation. During a practical, hands on course you will learn the basics of map reading including using features, contours and grid references. And discover how to plan your own journey through the park and use a compass to take and follow a route which will direct you to hidden treasure.

If the children still choose to stay indoor try your luck fishing at salmon. The River Dee is one of the most famous salmon rivers in the world and it runs just past the hotel. The hotel works with an expert team to offer guests the chance to fish in this exceptional location. The Salmon season starts early February and runs until the end of September. The Fife Arms even has an in-house forager who is passionate about sharing her expert knowledge of the local plants and vegetation. She leads tours of the surrounding areas, identifying, explaining and sharing the taste of plants that can be transformed into teas, tinctures, condiments or cosmetics.

Back in the hotel after an adventure fuelled day, do not forget to have a drink in the hotel bar. It was said that if you were looking for someone in Braemar, the first place you should look was the public bar at The Fife Arms. Newly christened The Flying Stag, the public bar continues to be the social centre of the village. With regulars rubbing shoulders with visitors, the bar has a vibrant atmosphere with animated conversation and live entertainment . You can’t escape the amazing art installation.

This "Flying Stag" was created by the renowned artist, James Prosek, who is known for his paintings of unique, hybrid animals. The animal is a union of a ptarmigan's wings (a bird that lives on the highest peaks of the Cairngorms) and a stag (commonly found in the forested Dee Valley). The bar offers local beers, Scottish whiskeys and spirits accompanied by a menu of bar snacks and hearty Scottish dishes. The food is of a higher quality than you would expect in a pub, just perfect and great wines, highly recommended. And very accessible for children.

The Clunie Dining Room is a little more sophisticated and showcases the art of wood-fire cooking. The meat we order is superb! Mouth wateringly tender and full of flavor (the beef is marinated in black treacle), the dripping roasted potatoes were caramelized crunchy heaven - the Yorkshire pudding light and fluffy and the roasted veg and green superb. If we could only eat here every single day. If you fancy a cocktail after dinner head to Elsa's bar. It brings Art Deco glamor to the Highlands and offers champagne and hand-crafted cocktails that are beautifully presented. What else do you need?

WOW

# This hotel is worth a visit! The atmosphere, food and service are fantastic.

# The Fife Arms is an experience. The decor of the hotel is terrific, and a traveller should visit the website prior to staying to select the room they like since they vary greatly.

# The ambience is relaxed and romantic, the art and decor amazing, the food first class and the service is excellent. The bar and hotel are dog friendly which is a real plus for dog loving families.