Le Mas de Peint, France — Top with kids

Each summer close to 10 million tourists descend on the beaches and mountains of Southern France. With close to 100 million visitors across the whole country it is one of the most visited places on earth. So, finding a somewhat quiet spot sounds like impossible. Well to the contrary; we found a small slice of heaven hardly visited by any tourist and smack in the middle of the Mediterranean coast. Welcome to Mas de Peint in the Camargue region. This 5-star hotel is part of a 500-ha (1235-acre) estate owned over multiple generations by the same family. Although turned hotelier, the family sees themselves as true rangers. Today’s manager Frederique Bon tells us about the long history and very well-established traditions of this unique place comprised of the hotel, well known restaurant and the Manade Jacques Bon (Ranch).

For a bird paradise a bird view seems appropriate…

The Camargue a natural region located south of Arles, between the Mediterranean Sea and the two arms of the Rhône delta. The eastern arm is called the Grand Rhône; the western one is ‘the Petit Rhône’. With an area of over 930 km2 (360 sq mi), the Camargue is western Europe's largest river delta. It is a vast plain comprising large brine lagoons or étangs, cut off from the sea by sandbars and encircled by reed-covered marshes. These are in turn surrounded by a large cultivated area. Approximately a third of the Camargue is either lakes or marshland. The central area around the shoreline of the Étang de Vaccarès has been protected as a regional park since 1927, in recognition of its great importance as a haven for wild birds. In 2008, it was incorporated into the larger Parc naturel régional de Camargue.

On our arrival to this exceptional place in nature the first member of the staff we encounter is the ‘house dog’ that enthusiastically welcomes us. The girls immediately start to play with him by trying to wrestle a stick from him; in vain as he is quick like the wind. But they are friends for the remainder of our stay.

We are shown to our family suite, an independent small cottage beside the garden. On the main floor there is a living room that doubles as the master bedroom with a fireplace. As it is almost 40 degrees Celsius, we will not make much use of it, but we image it being a delight in autumn or spring to just nestle in front of the crackling fire with a good glass of wine and a book. Upstairs is another room, for the girls. Two bathrooms are divided over the ground and first floor so we will not disturb each other. And one major bonus with this extremely hot weather: the suite is cooled by a very effective aircon. In front of our cottage we have a small terrace with proves an excellent breakfast spot.

Besides the family suite there are 8 rooms and 7 junior suites spread across the main allying big comfort and character and at the same time modern and refined. Some have private terraces and two rooms are equipped for persons with reduced mobility. Extra beds and cribs can be added. All rooms and suites are decorated in the typical France rural style.

So, this is a small-scale operation, most guest stay for a few nights, many as part of a road trip along the coast. Although not the most obvious choice for a family holiday, children who love the great outdoors will certainly have a great time. Even more so if they like horses and horse riding.

We go out on a family ride with Laurent, the "gardian" (the Camargue cowboys) nicknamed "Peù Blanc" crossing a part of the enormous estate made up of rice paddies and pastures. We ride the famous white horses. The Camargue horse is an ancient breed of horse indigenous to the Camargue area. Its origins remain relatively unknown, although it is generally considered one of the oldest breeds of horses in the world. For centuries, possibly thousands of years these small horses have lived wild in the harsh environment of the Camargue marshes and wetlands. They are a joy to ride; quick, but very friendly. The horses are the traditional mount of the gardians who herd the black Camargue bulls used in bullfighting. Going off the beaten track we take a close look at the similar famous and impressive bulls. On our way back we have great fun with our horses trotting through the water in the rice paddies and splashing each other wet. If you are a good rider, you will be able to live an exceptional experience along with our "gardians". You can participate in the sorting of the bulls with the cowboys who will be happy to share their work and passion with you.

If you are not into horse riding, one of the guides can take you out on a 4x4 expedition. For birdwatchers this preserved environment, home to 350 species of sedentary or migratory birds, is nothing sort of paradise. Or take our example and use one of the hotels mountain bikes to paddle across the estate yourself.

Back after our fun but dusty ride we cool off in the large pool, beautifully set in the gardens bordered by blossoming flowers. With so few rooms it is never busy at the pool and most times we have it for ourselves. It is heated so still pleasant to dip in even with lesser weather. Just behind the pool is the outdoor terrace that serves a delicious lunch. What about sampling bull of the property confit sandwich & homemade fries, organic rice cooked with vegetables from the garden or the Linguine prepared according to the season? The chef is also happy to cook up something straighter forward for the kids.

In the evening diner is quite a romantic affair with the tables decked out with white linen, candles and the equally white curtains leisurely flowing in the evening breeze. With less enjoyable weather dinner is served in the authentic kitchen with its huge antique stove. Menus are pre-set and everything is very well prepared. It’s a hard choice, for example out of braised fish and vegetables with cuttlefish ragout, roasted poultry Mashed potatoes with olive oil or Mediterranean seabass celery and seashells emulsion? This is one of the best restaurants in the region.

One thing to know and we can’t in any way fault the hotel for this, are the midges. Just as the sun sets large swarms of these annoying creatures decent on the estate. If you have your room or suite in the main building, you will be fine but as we have to go out for our family suite, we each time have to ‘run for our lives’. Still, this makes hilarious scenes and much laughter. But keep in mind that you will not be able to be outside in the evenings around the hotel.

Make sure you visit the ancient city of Arles not far from the hotel. Founded by the Celts as early as about 800 BC, the city became an important Phoenician trading port, before being taken by the Romans. Eventually the Romans took the town in 123 BC and expanded it into an important city, with a canal link to the Mediterranean Sea being constructed in 104 BC. However, it struggled to escape the shadow of Massalia (Marseilles) further along the coast. The city reached a peak of influence during the 4th and 5th centuries, when Roman Emperors frequently used it as their headquarters during military campaigns. In 395, it became the seat of the Praetorian Prefecture of the Gauls.

Arles remained economically important through the centuries as a major port on the Rhône. In the 19th century, the arrival of the railway diminished river trade, leading to the town becoming something of a backwater. This made it an attractive destination for the painter Vincent van Gogh, who arrived there on 21 February 1888. He was fascinated by the Provençal landscapes, producing over 300 paintings and drawings during his time in Arles. Many of his most famous paintings were completed there, including The Night Cafe, the Yellow Room, Starry Night Over the Rhone, and L'Arlésienne. Today Arles still boasts important Roman remnants, most of which have been listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 1981 and it makes for a very nice day trip. Do not forget to try an ice cream from one of the vendors at the central square.

Just a few kilometres from Arles you will find Les Alpilles, a region with fairy landscapes and old stone villages that remind us of Marcel Pagnol’s films. Spend a magic moment listening to the singing of the cicadas and let yourself be carried away by provençal culture. Small seaside towns such as Frontignan are also nearby providing excellent access to the beach and sea. We love spending time here and were surprised not to find any midge here in the evening. All beaches are relatively quiet and not ready overwhelmed by the crowds. You might like to keep this region our little secret….

WOW

# From the very first minute we felt like we landed in a small paradise. Very quiet and relaxed area with still a lot to do and explore for a few days. And cool off in a wonderful pool.

# The hotel offers delicious menus in a romantic atmosphere.

# Being able to ride with the marvellous white horses like a real cowboy, is a true adventure.