“Which prince and princes actually live here?” We just arrived and check in at the Chateau de Lalande in the Périgord region in France as our youngest daughter suddenly gets some hesitations. She thinks we have booked a home stay with some descendants from the former France Royal Family.
Well we did not check the pedigree of owners, but we can reassure her we are not being part of a Royal household for the coming days. That being said the Chateau de Lalande is a perfect picture example of an ancient France chateau. The building, which dates from the 18th and 19th centuries, has many period features, and the decoration selected by its new owners preserves the authenticity of the site by incorporating modern touches while respecting the spirit of the place. And what an exceptional place it is; situated near the town of Perigueux this beautiful 4-star building in a 3-hectare wooded park, belongs to the exclusive Châteaux & Hôtels Collection.
Surrounded by trees and a pretty park with a beautiful garden, young and old alike can rest, walk, or play in peace. There is something for everyone – not forgetting the beautiful outdoor pool with sun loungers, wisteria and plenty of sun. The castle’s interior is what you would expect of a premium hotel, with cosy rooms and plenty of space. The ambiance respects the history of the place and its traditional decoration, but without compromising on comfort.
Our accommodation is at a large suite in the old turret. We are not completely sure but we thought we saw a glimpse of Rapunzel swiftly descending from the tower room. And actually it just looks like a movie set for one of the new Disney blockbusters. The suite consists of two rooms adorned with heirloom and antique furniture, antique parquet and contemporary furniture. It is like a little family getaway. Perfectly arranged with plenty of space. The parents’ area has a large, double queen-size bed (160 cm), and the children’s area has 2 single beds with superior quality bedding, duvets, and extra-comfort pillows. And, very important in summer, a very effective aircon in both rooms.
The Chateau lies smack in the middle of the Périgord, a natural region and former province of France, which corresponds roughly to the current Dordogne département. The geography and natural resources of Périgord make it a beautiful, unspoiled region, rich in history and wildlife. And the newly created Parc Naturel Régional Périgord-Limousin aims to conserve it as such. We highly recommend a visit for a hike. And you probably will need some exercising as the Périgord is noted for its cuisine, especially its duck and goose products, such as confit de canard and foie gras. It is also known as a centre for truffles in France.
There is no real need to eat outdoors as the Chateau de Lalande has a restaurant of exceptional level. The gourmet restaurant is managed by co-owner and chef Yves. He makes refined, creative dishes, mainly using local products; revealing exquisite taste combinations. Think of typical Périgourdine specialities such as the duck in all its forms, Dordogne sturgeon, chestnuts and walnuts, porcini mushrooms, and, of course, black truffles. If the weather is good, the restaurant expands out onto the terrace; a splendid place to relax and get away from the stress of daily life. This being said, the ambiance is somewhat grownup and probably not the best place to take children that find it hard to spend two hours or more on a chair. Well and why would they as the grounds of the Chateau call for some exploration.
Discovering the grounds
Apart from a set of swings and the gorgeous pool you will not find dedicated children activities. Instead there are enough trees to climb in and if the children wander off the tracks just a little, they might discover the remains of ancient and unknown structures which can trigger their imagination.
During our visit in the height of summer it is stifling hot, so we spend a lot of time in the pool which is truly refreshing to say. The pergola adorned with century-old wisteria provides ample shade and there are a few deckchairs to lie down and take a little nap or read a book.
Poolview
If you feel like it, there are several family oriented activities nearby. For example the Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum is a museum of Gallo-Roman art and archaeology in the town of Perigueux. This is an exceptional museum and is a must if you want to see just how well a museum can preserve and educate about the Roman culture. Extremely thorough and well executed exhibit about the Roman city of Vesunna, told through the excavation of an extensive villa. Lots of fine sculptures have been recovered. It is reasonable cost wise and you would need to allow well over 1 hour if you want to do it justice. Our girls like it very much; the displays are brilliant and very informative. It makes one wonder what else lies under the medieval streets of the city! Vesunna is a large glass box placed over the ruins of a home, what is left of the larger community of Vesunna. It is a well-curated, modern space. There are individual artifacts, but the main portion of the space is a series of wooden boardwalks that traverse the rooms of this house. English narrative is available via audio phones.
Something else quite spectacular are the Grottes de Abbaye de Brantome. These remains of the first Benedictine monastery of Brantôme (8th century) and are cut into the limestone cliff partly hidden by the convent buildings: dwellings, pigeon houses and two monumental bas-reliefs. This commune started to develop on an island encircled by a sweep of the river Dronne next to the Benedictine Abbey of Brantôme, which was founded in 769 by Charlemagne; according to legend he donated relics of Saint Sicarius (Sicaire), one of the infants in the Massacre of the Innocents. Those relics attracted pilgrims to the abbey, who also brought a certain affluence to Brantôme. But in spite of St. Sicaire's protection, the abbey was laid waste in 848 and in 857 by Viking rovers who had advanced along the Dordogne and Isle rivers to the Dronne. The abbey was rebuilt towards the end of the tenth century and again in 1465 and in 1480 after the end of the Hundred Years' War. Its Romanesque bell-tower is a competitor for the title "oldest in France" and developed a high reputation.
WOW
# This might not be a typical family destination, but if your kids are into castles, knights or princesses this place is really worth a few nights stay. Small enough to feel intimate but large and professional enough not to feel like we were staying in someone's home.
# The view from the pool on the Chateau de Lalande is beautiful. And in the summer heat it is by far the best place to stay.
# The region of the Périgord is not yet overrun by tourist. Get a breath of fresh air, get oxygenated, take time to breathe and rest. Or go out and explore some of the sights nearby.
